Pierced Bowl Project

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1. This is the finished bowl it has a deep undercut rim with a pierced rim which has been dyed black.
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2. The timber of choice is English Ash 9" x 3". Here the piece is shown with the 3" face plate ready to be screwed on to my Poolewood Euro 2000 lathe.
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3. Here the back of the bowl is starting to be shaped. A 60mm spigot has been cut using a parting tool in preparation for the O'Donnell jaws.
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4. The shape of back of the bowl is being finalised with the 1/2" bowl gouge.
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5. A shear cut is made on back of the bowl using the 1/2" bowl gouge.  This cut will remove any tearing of the grain caused by the roughing cuts.
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6. The finished back of the bowl after sanding. I start with 150 grit cloth back abrasive and work up to 600 grit.
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7. The bowl is now being held in the Axminster Super Precision chuck using the O'Donnell jaws. These jaws give greater clearance when working near the jaws.
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8. Again using the 1/2" bowl gouge the top side is levelled and the correct depth attained.
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9. The inside has now been cut away using the bowl gouge. This is as far as I undercut the rim using the bowl gouge but I need to go a lot further! The middle of the inside is still left quite thick at this stage to help support the rim of the bowl.
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10. This is the tool to undercut the rim. This one is home made out of an old scraper. These are commercially available under the name of "Hook" tools. This is sharpened like a scraper using a burr formed by grinding to act as the cutting edge.
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11. This shows how far the rim is undercut. Notice that the tool is pointing down and that it is flat on the tool rest - very important otherwise the tool will snatch in a spectacular fashion!
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12. Here I am power sanding the rim with a 3" sanding pad and a 120 grit abrasive disc. The rest of the inside is sanded to 600 grit as before.
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13. Cut the holes using a Dremel (or similar) tool with an 1/8" burr attachment. I used a completely random pattern but you can do whatever you want.
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14. The piercing is now completed. Note: I removed the whole chuck from the lathe rather than removing the bowl from the jaws. This is so that the bowl does not move which can happen when re-chucking.
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15. Here I am using Liming Paste to enhance the contrast with the black rim and accentuate the grain.
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16. Applying the stain with a piece of cloth. I use a water based pre-mixed wood dye. Try not to spill it!
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17. The dye has now been completely applied to the top surface.
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18. A groove is cut with a skew chisel for decoration.
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19. The inside is masked off and an aerosol based sanding sealer is used and then satin acrylic lacquer is applied.
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20. The large button jaws are used to reverse chuck the bowl so that the bottom foot can be finished.
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21. The finished foot. Apply the liming paste to the outside of the bowl and protect with your choice of finish. I used Finishing oil.
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22. The finished bowl.

Disclaimer: The techniques shown here are representative of the way that I work. I have highlighted certain Health and Safety points throughout but responsibility lies solely with the person who is carrying out the woodturning. Always adhere to safe working practices at all times. Remember the more fingers that you lose, the harder it becomes to turn wood!